The Levantine and the heart in hand

by Martina Priviero

In the sestiere of Castello stands the Scuola di San Marco, and on its façade one can admire fascinating and precious perspective plays created by one of the most competent stonemasons of the Serenissima, Cesco Pizzigani, who made this structure world famous. It was 1501 when Cesco’s wife was struck down by a very serious illness. He did everything he could to make her well, but all his human and economic efforts did not pay off, so much so that she died and Cesco ended up broke. He sold his own store, finding himself forced to beg right outside the front door of the school he had helped to build. Sometimes, unseen, he enjoyed practicing his old art on the sides of the portal with a nail, carving the outlines of the ships he saw loading and unloading goods in the harbor every day. Nearby resided a young woman who had fathered a son by a Levantine of Turkish origin and enjoyed the privileges reserved for foreigners who dwelt on the island of Giudecca. The boy lived with his father but often visited his mother with whom he had a somewhat turbulent relationship because of the inner conflict caused by being half Venetian and half Turkish. The woman put up with this attitude because of her infinite love for her son, but one day this feeling ceased to exist because the quarrel between them resulted in tragedy: during the argument the boy stabbed her, killing her and ripping out her heart. Once he came to his senses and realized the insane act he had done, he ran away in panic holding the heart organ in his hands. Trampling for his escape he reached St. Mark’s School and, having climbed the first step, tumbled to the ground dropping the heart, which, after touching the ground, let out these words, “My son, are you hurt?” Hearing this the boy, unsteady and despondent, threw himself into the waves in front of the nearby cemetery. Cesco was there and, after witnessing that heartbreaking scene, decided to remember it in his own way by carving it on marble. Today at the school, next to the ships’ profiles, it is possible to see the figure of a turbaned man clutching a heart in his hands. Legend has it that it is still possible to hear the Levantine’s wails as he searches for his mother’s heart, to feel its loving warmth during the freezing winter nights.

Travel Journal

House of Tintiretto

At number 3399 Cannaregio is the Gothic dwelling with a 15th-century flavor of Jacopo Robusti, better known as Tintoretto, an appellation acquired through the profession of his father, Battista Robusti, a fabric dyer. On the piano nobile stands out a triple lancet window with windows framed by a string-course cornice. Despite the subsequently raised mezzanine, the facade retains all its historically cultural flavor. A plaque on the facade reads, “Do not ignore, wayfarer, the ancient house of Jacopo Robusti called Tintoretto. From here to everywhere spread innumerable paintings, admirable publicly and privately, masterfully executed with fine ingenuity by his brush. You will be pleased to learn this because of the diligence of the present owner. 1842”

Madonna of the Garden

A sanctuary built around 1350, it is certainly one of the most important monuments among the must-sees in the Cannaregio district. The Church of the Madonna dell’Orto offers visitors a wide sampling of works of art. Fame and beauty of it are undoubtedly linked to the name of the famous painter Tintoretto, who lived in the nearby Campo dei Mori. Robusti left ten splendid works and more in the sanctuary. In the left side of the apse rest the sacred remains of the artist. What better testamentary bequest! There are four funerary chapels built on the left side of the church: the Valier chapel, the Vendramin chapel, the Morosini chapel and the Contarini chapel, surnames of some of the most important Venetian families.

Teatro Italia

An iconic place in the heart of Venice, an architectural jewel of the early 20th century, Teatro Italia was redeveloped in 2016. It has once again become a landmark for those who love to be surrounded by the beauty and breath of history, even in their daily lives. In its century-long life, this prestigious building has been a theater, a cinema, a university campus and now, after careful restoration work, one of the most scenic grocery stores in the world. It has once again become a true stage for emotions, and is a heritage that holds stories and protagonists of excellence in the Italian food and wine scene.

Jewish Museum

The Jewish Museum is a little treasure chest in the heart of Venice, where you can touch the history of Italy’s oldest ghetto. It is an authentic corner of Venice, made a treasure trove of art and beauty by a culture thousands of years old. Created in 1516 in an area that formerly housed a foundry, the Ghetto Nuovo was expanded in 1541 with the addition of the so-called Ghetto Vecchio and, in 1633, the Ghetto Nuovissimo. This Jewish Museum was founded in 1954 by the Jewish Community and a visit to this place is a true journey through time. One can discover examples of goldsmith and textile manufacture, see the beauty of ritual objects used in the home and synagogue, and admire the valuable collection of ancient books and manuscripts.

Did you know.

According to the Feng Shui current of thought, everything is built in such a way as to be able to obtain the beneficial waves of the Great Dragon, which lies underground. If we look at Venice from above, it seems that the Grand Canal winds inside the city, simulating the shape of a dragon. The island of San Giorgio, located at its tail end, is dedicated to the saint who killed the dragon.